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Climbing Nevado Alpamayo (5,947m)

Climb Overview

Nevado Alpamayo at 5947 m (19,511 feet) is one of the most conspicuous peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. Alpamayo is a steep, (sixty degrees), one of a number of peaks that compose the Santa Cruz Massif. While smaller than many of its neighboring peaks, it is distinguished by its unusual formation and overwhelming beauty. The most common climbing route, known as Vasque - French route, is situated on the southwest face. It is considered a difficult climb, demanding good crampon and ice-climbing technique. There are amazing views of steep ice faces, gigantic white walls and ridges similar to the finest of the Himalayan scenery.

Maximum Altitude 5947 m (19,506) feet
Difficulty (= AD)
Lengths 7 - 8 days climb

Brief Itinerary

Day 1: Huaraz – Cashapampa at (2990m) – Llama Coral 3760 (m)/12,332ft.

Day 2: Llama Coral - Alpamayo Base Camp at (4330m)/14,202ft

Day 3: Base Camp - Moraine Camp at (4900m)/16,072ft

Day 4: Moraine Camp - Alpamayo high Camp I at (5500m)/18,000ft

Day 5: Attempt Summit Alpamayo (5947m)/ 19,506ft

Day 6: Camp I – Alpamayo Base Camp (4330m)/14,202ft

Day 7: base camp alpamayo – Cashapampa – Huaraz

Note: if you take 8 days climbing 01 day is add for extra day, which can be one day longer than many others that you can see. The extra day can be effectively used for bad weather, or in otherwise when the ice wall is crowded the day that we can attempt the summit, in that case we can wait by our safety and attempt the next day.

Itinerary Description

Overwhelming beauty ice fluted peak of mount Alpamayo

Day 1: Huaraz – Cashapampa at (2990m) – Llama Coral 3760 (m)/12,332ft.
We drive from Huaraz to Cashapampa with our private transport into Callejón de Huaylas until reach of mountain village, where we will meet with our crow, and then we will wakl along santa cruz valley until reach wide alpine meadow of llamcoral with great mountain view to the background.
Overnight camp at llamacoral

Day 2: Llama Coral - Alpamayo Base Camp at (4330m)/14,202ft
We will walk up along quebrada santa cruz pasing on the way up on beautiful glacier lakes of ichich cocha and jatun cocha until reach quisuar from where we will deviate toward the north and walk up on several switchbacks to reach the overwhelming view point then follow to Base Camp on arhueycocha ravine, where a lovely place is nestled in among Queñual trees next to a small stream.
Overnight at alpamayo base camp

Day 3: Base Camp - Moraine Camp at (4900m)/16,072ft
This Camp is situated just below the glacier on polished slabs of granite rock; we usually we walk up the steep path with porters support. Note: our collective climb gear as tent, rope, food will be transported by our porters, who will carried it in their big backpacks, but you need to carry your personal climbing gear, clothes and sleeping bag.
Overnight at moraine camp

Day 4: Moraine Camp - Alpamayo high Camp I at (5500m)/18,000ft
This day we will Move from moraine camp to high camp over the glacier with porters support, It’s a big day generally we will climb up on slope ice and snow until the high pass, but to reach the high glacier plateau, we need to pass an ice wall of 60 meters long with pitch of 55º of solid snow or sometimes hard ice; the high camp is usually located on the high pass between alpamayo and quitaraju.
Overnight at alpamayo high camp

Day 5: Attempt Summit Alpamayo (5947m)/ 19,506ft
Summit day: Rising early, we cross the glacier between camp and the bergschrund at the base wall of the Southwest Face, where begin the huge ice wall flouted, After climbing for many hours we reach the top with 7 or 8 pitches, on the summit we are going to have the most scenic view about many snowcapped peaks around us. We usually Descent same route with several rappels until High Camp.
Overnight at alpamayo high camp

Day 6: Camp I – Alpamayo Base Camp (4330m)/14,202ft
After climbing alpamyo successfully this day we will pack our everything to descent to Base Camp
Overnight at base camp alpamayo

Day 7: base camp alpamayo – Cashapampa – Huaraz
We walk down on the Santa Cruz valley until cashapampa village, where our private transportation is waiting us to bring Huaraz Finish Our Climb. Back to Huaraz for a nice shower in the hotel and some rest; enjoy a good dinner celebrating in y the town.

Optional Day 08: if you take 8 days climbing 01 day is add for extra day, which can be one day longer than many others that you can see. The extra day can be effectively used for bad weather, or in otherwise when the ice wall is crowded the day that we can attempt the summit, in that case we can wait by our safety and attempt the next day.

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