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Climbing Nevado Huascaran (6,768m)

Climb Overview

Huascarán at 6,768 meters (22,205 feet), it is situated in the heart of Cordillera Blanca of the Western Andes. The South peak of Huascarán is the highest point in Peru and the fourth highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere. Huascarán is normally climbed from the musho village on the west via a high camp reaching the col or known as La Garganta that separates the north & south summit. The ascent normally takes 6–7 days, the main difficulties is from the high camp 1 to high camp 2 or garganta with large crevasses and icefall that fall down blocking the route. It’s only accessible, for climbers that have a high fitness, well acclimatized, wide knowledgeable of climbing skills on ice and snow & significant experience with crampons.

Maximum Altitude 6768 m (22,200) feet
Difficulty (AD)
Length 6 - 7 days climbs

Brief Itinerary

Day 1: Huaraz - Musho - Huascaran Base Camp at (4200m)/13,776ft.

Day 2: Base Camp –high camp I at (5300m)/17,056ft on the Glacier

Day 3: high Camp I –high Camp II or Garganta (6000m)/19,680ft

Day 4: attempt summit Huascaran South peak (6768m)/22,199ft - Camp II.

Day 5: high Camp II – high camp I - Base Camp.

Day 6: Base Camp - Musho - huaraz

Note: if you take 7 days climbing 01 day is add for extra day, which can be one day longer than many others that you can see. The extra day can be effectively used, when we through the more dangerous parts of the climb, where we spend one day in otherwise it can be used for bad weather, or rest

Itinerary Description

Touching the sky challenging your limit on Climb mount Huascaran

Day 1: Huaraz - Musho - Huascaran Base Camp at (4200m)/13,776ft.
We drive from Huaraz to the north until the smmal town of mancos, then turn to east until reach Musho village, where we will meet with our donkeys and donkeys drivers, who are load our climbing year until base camp, for us start the trek through eucalyptus Forest until the base camp.
Overnight at base camp

Day 2: Base Camp –high camp I at (5300m)/17,056ft on the Glacier
Our goal on this day is to reach high Camp, which is on the glacier, we will walk on rocky until edge the glacier, and from this place we will walk on glacier until reach the high camp, our collective climb gear as tent, rope, food will be transported by our porters, who will carried it in their big backpacks, but you need to carry your personal climbing gear, clothes and sleeping bag.
Overnight at high camp I

Day 3: high Camp I –high Camp II or Garganta (6000m)/19,680ft
Today is a challenging day, because In the canaleta between Camps 1 and 2 can often be found ice slope steeps with 45°, 50° or 60°, which can be, significant technical difficulty and even, where is required to use two ice axes. The garganta or high camp II is lies between Huascaran Sur and Norte peak.
Overnight at high camp II

Note: the Canaleta is the most dangerous part to ascent & descent with large crevasses and seracs avalanche that fall down blocking the route, where is necessary to move quickly.

Day 4: attempt summit Huascaran South peak (6768m)/22,199ft - Camp II.
Summit day: it is the most important day because our goal is reaches the top. However it is long day for climbing, we will start ascending very early on steep slopes, until reach the technical crux with the large crevasse that cross from Huascaran north to south, each year the route is slightly different; the varying state of the glacier on summit day may necessitate the need for advanced steep climbing skills. Over the summit we will have the most spectacular and superb view, because we will be surrounded by all mountains of cordillera Blanca, then we will descent on the same route until high camp II.
Overnight high at camp II

Day 5: high Camp II – high camp I - Base Camp.
After our breakfast we will pack our climbing gear very early, and then we will start descending until Base Camp for a nice dinner celebration.
Overnight camp at base camp

Day 6: Base Camp - Musho - huaraz
We will walk down until Musho village, where our private transportation is waiting us to bring Huaraz Finish Our Climb. Back to Huaraz for a nice shower in the hotel and some rest; enjoy a good dinner celebrating in y the town.

Optional Day 07: The extra day can be effectively used, when we through the more dangerous parts of the climb, where we spend one day in otherwise it can be used for bad weather, or rest.

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