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Climbing Nevado Urus - Ishinca – Tocllaraju

Climb Overview

These three spectacular peaks are the most popular summits for climbing in the Cordillera Blanca, with impressive and superb views from the summit, where ishinca and urus are used as warming up to climb tocllaraju.

Tocllaraju (AD) - 6030m (19,778) feet
Ishinca (PD) - 5530m (18,138) feet
Urus (PD) - 5495m (18,023) feet
Length 7 days climbs

Brief Itinerary

Day 1: huaraz - pashpa village – ishinca base camp at (4350m)/14,268ft

Day 2: attempt summit urus at (5495m)/18,023ft –base camp

Day 3: Attempt – summit ishinca at (5530m)/18,138ft – base camp

Day 4: day off at Ishinca base camp

Day 5: Base camp – moraine camp of Tocllaraju (5000m)/16,400ft

Day 6: Attempt summit at (6034m)/19,778ft -moraine camp – base camp.

Day 7: Ishinca Base Camp - Pashpa – Huaraz.

Itinerary Description

Spectacular three peaks Climbing at ishinca valley

Day 1: huaraz - pashpa village - ishinca base camp at (4350m)/14,268ft

We will drive along the callejon de huaylas about 15 kilometers until Puente mullaca then we turn off on a dirt road to the villages of Collon and Pashpa, the traditional trail heads for the trek into the Ishinca Valley until cochapampa at 3500 meters, from where we will walk up on pleasant valley until reach Base Camp. The trail pass through high land fields with fantastic views of mount Huascarán and mount Vallunaraju, before entrance of Quebrada Ishinca, from this place we will walk though shady Queñuales forests, the valley start opening with astonishing Mountain View to the background, as soon as we will reach the base camp.
Overnight at ishinca base camp

Day 2: attempt summit urus at (5495m)/18,023ft –base camp

Summit day: we normally leave early from base camp on steep faint path until reach the glacier then climbing up on rocky and snow until reaching the summit, when the sun is rising to enjoy taking the most marvelous pictures around us, then we descent on the same route until base camp.
Overnight at ishinca base camp

Day 3: Attempt – summit ishinca at (5530m)/18,138ft – base camp
Summit day: We start early, at the beginning our climbing in the dark, Following a good moderate grade trail until Laguna Ishinca at about 4950 meters, then we will walk on steep path until reach the beginning of glacier, as soon as we reach it we put on our climbing gear as crampons, rope up, harness, then we will start climbing up on snow and ice slopes of north ridge until high pass about 5200 meters. From this side we climb up on good snow field but crossing over several crevasses terrain, until the base of the final steep slope, which is just below the summit, some years this slope is 45º to 50º degree snow until reach the top. On descent we can follow our route up, or we can traverse of the peak, on west ridge, until col between Ranrapalca and Ishinca, and then follow walking down Base Camp.
Overnight at ishinca base camp

Day 4: day off at Ishinca base camp
This day we can spend all day resting at our campsite for recovering energy and shape after climbing two peaks enjoying the most astonishing views around us, the view is truly awesome with majestic beauty mountain views.
The second option is to make a short hike to Lake Tocllacocha close out camp site, where we will have the most breath-taking view surrounded by huge Andean peaks
Overnight at ishinca base camp Day 5: Base camp – moraine camp of Tocllaraju (5000m)/16,400ft
This day we will move from base camp to moraine camp, The path is much significant steep until moraine camp at 5000 meters (16,400 feet), we generally climb up with porter support.

Note: our collective climb gear as tent, rope, food will be transported by our porters, who will carried it in their big backpacks, but you need to carry your personal climbing gear, clothes and sleeping bag. Overnight at moraine camp of tocllaraju

Day 6: Attempt summit at (6034m)/19,778ft -moraine camp – base camp.
Summit day we normally leave early, we will climb on the west face until reach the north ridge then we follow it on ice slope steep of 65° for 50 meters the we follow climbing until the top, we approach when the sun is rising to enjoy taking the most beautiful pictures around us, then we will descent on the same route with several rappels until moraine camp – base camp.
Overnight ishinca base camp

Day 7: Ishinca Base Camp - Pashpa – Huaraz.
On our last day after our breakfast we will walk down until cochapampa, where our private transportation is waiting us to bring Huaraz Finish Our Climb. Back to Huaraz for a nice shower in the hotel and some rest; enjoy a good dinner celebrating in y the town.

Traveller Reviews


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