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Climbing Nevado Chopicalqui (6,354m)

Climb Overview

Chopicalqui at 6354m (20,841 feet) is the fourth highest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca, it is seen from Huaraz, it forms a perfect pyramid; Chopicalqui is located between the Huascaran Sur and Huascaran north it is known a beautiful and amazing snow shelf, known as the “Mushroom”, not to mention the summit, which provides a spectacular 360 degree overwhelming view. The normal route to climbs is on the southeast ridge, in the crest between Chopicalqui and Huascarán.

Maximum Altitude 6354m (20,841) feet
Difficulty (AD)
Lengths 5 days climb

Brief Itinerary

Day 1: Huaraz - Curve Chopicalqui –Base Camp 4300m

Day 2: Base Camp - Moraine Camp At 4900m

Day 3: Moraine Camp - High Camp (5300m)/17,384ft

Day 4: Attempt Summit Chopicalqui (6354 M)/20,841ft - Moraine Camp/ Base Camp

Day 5: Moraine Camp/ Base Camp – Chopicalqui Curve – Huaraz

Itinerary Description

Click stunning photos on Climbing mount Chopicalqui

Day 1: Huaraz - Curve Chopicalqui –Base Camp 4300m
We drive from Huaraz, to Yungay, and then we will drive up into the llanganuco valley, The lakes in the head of the famous valley are popular destination to tourists with fantastic vista, until chopicallqui big switchback, from where we are going to load up our gear and we will walk up until reach the base camp.
Overnight at moraine camp

Day 2: Base Camp - Moraine Camp At 4900m
We will follow walking up on faint path that will bring us to the next camp, which is lies just below of huge rock cave, that point offer incredible view to the north site across to Pisco and Huandoy peaks are spectacular, in special when is sunset on clear afternoon.
Note: our collective climb gear as tent, rope, food will be transported by our porters, who will carried it in their big backpacks, but you need to carry your personal climbing gear, clothes and sleeping bag.
Overnight at moraine camp

Day 3: Moraine Camp - High Camp (5300m)/17,384ft
We climb up on the loose rocky until the beginning of glacier as soon as we reach the glacier we will dress up our climb gears, and rope up, and then we will continue climbing up by easy slopes ice until reach the high camp I, which is located on the southwest ridge.
Overnight at high camp

Day 4: Attempt Summit Chopicalqui (6354 M)/20,841ft - Moraine Camp/ Base Camp
Summit day, this day we will start climbing up very early on slightly steep snow and ice, there are some sections, where we need to use two technical ice axes to climbing. From the summit we are going to take the most magnificent pictures around us, and then we will start descending on the same route making some rappels until high camp – moraine camp or base camp.
Last night camp at moraine or base camp

Note: If we have the time and energy we will be able to reach until base camp for nice celebrating dinner but in otherwise we will sleep at Moraine Camp.

Day 5: Moraine Camp/ Base Camp – Chopicalqui Curve – Huaraz
We will continue with our descent from base camp or from moraine camp until reach chopicallqui curve, where our private transportation is waiting us to bring Huaraz Finish Our Climb. Back to Huaraz for a nice shower in the hotel and some rest; enjoy a good dinner celebrating in y the town.

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Jiron Alfonzo Ugarte Nº 202 Huaraz - Peru
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